All Apologies

I feel as though I owe Chuck a bit of an apology.

In my post regarding climbing style and ethics (“The Gray Zone”), I used two friends to illustrate differences in approaches to style and ethics.  Unfortunately, I think I may have mischaracterized, or at least over-generalized his approach to climbing, and may have unwittingly insulted him somewhat.  If I did, I owe him an apology, Chuck being one of my closest friends.

A better summation of Chuck’s overall stance towards climbing (and to life, really) is that he is concerned with people’s motivations for their actions.  For instance, his abhors the notion of “secret crags” when the reason for keeping crags a secret is to maintain an elitist ideal, as an act of exclusion.  He especially gets steamed when people brag about their secret areas in public, but are quick to get all hush-hush.

Here is where I feel I need to qualify something about the bouldering development at Pennypack.  I was attempting to keep the crag “secret” in so far as to keep the imaginary “masses” from overrunning the place.  (I realize that this would probably never happen.)  True, there was some element of ego in this as well, as I was looking forward to bagging some FAs, but by the same token, anyone who I knew was welcome to go there and get the beta.  And frankly, anyone who asked was welcome.

He also has no issues with restricted access at crags, provided that the reasons aren’t something that he considers “silly”.  By his own admission, when the reason is “silly”, he gets heated by the lack of control.  I can feel his pain on this issue as well.

Generally speaking, Chuck has pretty moderate views when it comes to climbing.  He sums it up best this way:

I really just enjoy climbing for the movement, the subtleties, the strengthening. I enjoy climbing for climbing. If I’m climbing 5.7 or I’m climbing 5.10, I’m still enjoying myself. The attention on grading, I feel as gone too far. Do I need to know what the grade of the climb is in a Sterling ropes Chris Sharma advertisement? Will it sell me the rope better? I don’t care that he’s on something rated 5.14 for a rope advertisement. I care that the rope will arrest my fall and allow me to climb another day.

I hope this clears things up, buddy.  Let’s hit the Gunks.

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1 comment so far

  1. Chuck on

    No worries duder. I was just hoping to clarify my viewpoints. I wasn’t referring to you when discussing “secret” crags.


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